Have you ever been camping?
After an overnight train journey, a traveller arrives in Uttarakhand, India. He sets off on a two-week trek to “Panch Kedar.” During the trek, he explores sacred locations dedicated to Lord Shiva. Enchanted by the beauty of the mountains, he navigates the challenging terrain. He reaches various temples, including Tungnath and Madmaheshwar. He enjoys breathtaking views and the tranquillity of nature. Despite delays, bad weather, and physical exhaustion, each stop offers profound beauty and spiritual connection. His adventures culminate in a heartfelt appreciation for the serene landscape, leaving him rejuvenated and inspired by the experience.
Table of contents
Key Takeaways
- The article describes a trek to the Panch Kedar trek in Uttarakhand, India, focusing on spiritual and natural beauty.
- It highlights the significance of the five sacred temples dedicated to Lord Shiva and the challenges of the trek.
- The author expresses a lifelong attraction to mountains and the serene experiences found in hilly areas.
- Weather conditions in October offer perfect trekking opportunities, enhancing the breathtaking views of the Himalayas.
- The narrative includes personal reflections, local encounters, and the rewarding experience of connecting with nature.
Hills attract
Mountains have been his most favourable geological formations. Since childhood, mountains have fascinated him a lot. Snow-capped lofty peaks, meadows dotted with conifers, and flowing streams are his most cherished things. He feels a magnetic attraction towards mountains and hilly areas, especially drawn to the rustic ones. They offer more untouched beauty and charm. Trekking and travelling in hilly areas are favourites.
The trek of Panch Kedar (Five in all) is rewarding and fulfilling. It involves taking all types of transportation, intermittent rests and night halts. It takes 15-20 days to cover them all.
“Panch Kedar”
“Panch Kedar” (Five Kedars) are the conglomerate of the five most auspicious abodes of Lord Shiva. They are situated at the high ridges of the Himalayas. Each abode is at different locations fairly far away from the others. Five Kedars, in no particular order, include Tungnath, Rudranath, Kalpeshwar, Madmaheshwar, and Kedarnath. They are located on the difficult ridges of high mountains. Trekking in them is a rewarding experience that allows proximity to Nature. For those of faith, visiting sacred places is a significant act of piety. Pilgrimage to them and other sites like Yamunotri, Gangotri, Badrinath, and Kedarnath is the most auspicious. They are viewed with great reverence. (Wikipedia)
The story
It is believed that after the battle of Mahabharat, the Pandavas felt guilty of fratricide. They tried to seek forgiveness from Lord Shiva, but the angry Lord hid in the Himalayas. Pandavas pursued Him in the Himalayas, where they found Him. As they approached Lord Shiva, He morphed Himself into a bull and fled. Luckily, Bhima caught hold of the bull from its back. Shiva, as a bull, disappeared into the earth. His body parts reappeared in different places of the Garhwal region of the Himalayas. Arms appeared in Tungnath, Face in Rudranath, locks of hair in Kalpeshwar, navel in Madhyamaheshwar and throat in Kedarnath. Feeling obliged by the reappearance of Lord Shiva, the Pandavas venerated and worshipped Him.
Optimal season
The season was changing. It was October, the moderate and best season for trekking in the hills. After the rains are over, the dust settles down, making the sky clear. It allows clear viewing of spectacular Himalayan peaks against the cerulean sky. The weather is neither cold nor hot and is best for physical activity like trekking. Sauntering among the hills, passing through valleys and hilly allies, and enjoying nature’s beauty is a blissful experience.
The journey
After an overnight journey, the train was reaching its culmination point in Uttarakhand, India. The morning was pleasant, and the sun was gradually rising. Petrichor announced a recent spell of drizzle. The air was moisture-laden. Water droplets adorned the edges of leaf blades. The reflection of the morning solar radiation was transforming them into beautiful pieces of jewellery.
Shining rail tracks
Rolling over the serpentine rail tracks, the train slowly approached the platform, leaving the yard behind. Rail heads, with their steel sheen, shone like a long curvaceous streak in the morning sunlight. After rolling for a while, the train stopped with a loud, heavy screeching sound. People started disembarking the train.
Morning tea
Coming out of the compartment, he looked around. It was a fairly decent station. A splash of cold water on the face freshened him. In the meantime, the ordered tea was served. He took the first sip and looked around. The soft morning sunlight was becoming harder. Standing in front of the tea kiosk, sipping the tea and watching people refreshed him. The hearth was belching smoke, and the kettle with boiling water produced a gurgling sound.
Kathgodam
The dark Shivalik range looked pretty. Kathgodam is a suburb of Haldwani. It used to be a timber depot in the past. Hence, the name Kathgodam (“Kāth” wood and “Gōdām” depot). It is also known as the “Gateway of Kumaon”. He took a few strolls to reach the bus stand, booked a ticket and set off for Bhawali.
On the way to Tungnath
Tungnath was the first among the Panch Kedar in the trek itinerary. Covering all five in a stretch was strenuous, as it required a significant amount of time besides physical movement. Leaving it to a future course, he set out for the Tungnath trek, which starts from Chopta. There was no direct bus from Bhowali to Chopta. One had to go to Rudraprayag to catch a bus to reach Chopta. Moreover, there was no direct bus to Rudraprayag either. The bus from Haldwani had to be changed in Ganai to take another bus for Rudraprayāg.
Ganai
Slithering on serpentine roads, the bus reached Ganai. Situated on the bank of the river Ramganga, Ganai is a small town. It is in the block Chaukhutiya of the district Almora in the state of Uttarakhand. Ganai is a small town. The fast-flowing river Ramganga is shallow and limpid. It houses many fish that look pretty while swimming in clear water. There was nothing more to see in the town.
The connecting bus to Rudraprayāg arrived very late in the afternoon. The bus conductor explained that the bus tyre was damaged midway. It took a long time to fix it. The wait, nevertheless, was very long, monotonous and frustrating as it wasted the whole day.
Rudraprayag
Ultimately, the bus reached Rudraprayāg. The place was a little crowded. By the time the bus reached Rudraprayāg, it was crepuscular. Soon it became dark. He booked a room in a government tourist bungalow for one night, took a refreshing bath and slept. He slept well.
The next morning, he felt fresh and light after a sound sleep. He packed his rucksack, took tea and light snacks, cleared the bill and came out of the rest house. Sauntering slowly up to a few feet, he arrived in a market. It was bustling with activities. The bus journey usually causes him a headache, giddiness and nanausea. As a precautionary measure, he purchased a few medicines and caught a Chopta-bound bus.
Chopta
Luckily, he got a window seat. The journey was short but very nice and fulfilling. Sitting beside the window, he enjoyed the hills and their beauty. The narrow serpentine road passes through the most picturesque mountain sites, terraced fields and deep canyons. Slithering through curvaceous roads, the bus stopped at a point. It was Chopta, a small but blessed with serene mountain beauty. Nestled in the serene and beautiful Garhwal Himalayas, Chopta is also known for its salubrious environment. Disembarking the bus, trekking to Tungnath started.
Tungnath
The trek to Tungnath is short but strenuous. Its gradient is acute. Covering a short distance with an acute gradient makes it a tough trek. The narrow route passes through beautiful meadows and offers a splendid view of Chokhambha Peak. The spectacular sight of the peak is breathtakingly beautiful. The peak accompanied him to the temple of Tungnath. The temple is old and is situated at the highest elevation. After a difficult but pleasing trek, reaching the culmination was gratifying. It was an experience inexpressible.
Evening and the setting sun
By the time he reached the temple, it was evening. The sun was going down. The sight of the setting sun behind the mountains was mesmerisingly beautiful. The gush of cold wind was more than enough to chill the ambience. Teeth started playing castanets, and hands shivered like hay sticks. He tried to take pictures of the area, the temple and the setting sun with difficulty. While viewing the captivating sunset, he tried to gulp down every drop of the elixir of natural beauty.
The supper
Darkness set in right away after sunset. He took refuge in a small enclosure in the temple. A person from the temple was cooking food. He enjoyed the delicious ambrosia, which tasted excellent. With the deepening of night, the temperature fell to freezing, causing the water contained in a bucket to freeze. There were sheets of ice on the ground and icicles on the blades of grass. The enclosure was, nevertheless, cosy. He slipped into his sleeping bag and plunged into a deep slumber.
Chandrashila
The next morning, trekking to yet another high point – Chandrashila started as a part of the Panch Kedar trek. Scaling precipitous heights was thrilling. Enjoying the view and streaks of frozen icicles added to the excitement. The efforts were rewarded by the spectacular sight of the valley below. The gushy winds were freezing cold, and the sun was about to rise. The sun suddenly popped up. It filled the surroundings with a golden hue and a tinge of blue. The mountains and their peaks appeared pretty in the various shades of blue.
Last-moment round
After spending quality time with nature at Chandrashila, he returned to the Tungnath temple and attended an oblation. Wanting to mingle his soul with the immersive beauty and serenity of the place, he took a last-moment round of the area. The downward trek was comparatively less strenuous as it was towards the gravitational force. Nonetheless, while trekking down, care must be taken to save knees from possible internal injuries. The trek and the natural beauty, especially the view of Chaukhambha Peak, are admirably beautiful.
Guptkashi
Back to Chopta, a shared taxi was ready to leave. It reached Guptkashi in the afternoon. After booking an accommodation in a lodge, he explored and enjoyed Guptkashi. He visited local sites, especially the temple dedicated to Shiva. Utilising his spare time, he visited Ukhimath, the winter abode of Kedarnath. After a night’s stay at he set off for Kalimath the next morning. One of the famous seats of Shakti (Power), Kalimath, is an important pilgrimage dedicated to the incarnation of Goddess Sati.
Madmaheshwar
Madmaheshwar is yet another important Panch Kedar trek. It started from Kalimath. Taking a brief stop and paying a visit to the famous temple, he felt invigorated. Going down the stairs leading to the Saraswati river, he rinsed his face and sprinkled water over his head.
The trek
The trek from Kalimath to Madmaheshwar is enchantingly beautiful. The beaten path passes through many picturesque sites. The stretch is more than forty kilometres and allows one to drench oneself in the pious beauty of Nature. Walking through the clumps of trees with singing birds is indescribable. The view of the valley below is spectacular. The trekker often rests and enjoys the untouched beauty of nature, the precipitous mountains, and various flora and fauna.
Mesmerising
Passing through small villages, the trek leads to many rapturous spots. Every turn reveals something new and enchanting. There is a valley and canyon with many hues of nature’s beauty. Terraced fields with crops looked colourful, lively and mesmerising.
The trek passed through colourful terraced fields, jungles and valleys. Sometimes, the path led to the bottom of the valley. Then again, a climb up to the hilltop to cross the area.
a few more kilomeres
After walking a considerable distance, he stopped in a small village to take a rest and have some refreshing tea. The sun was on its downward journey. He had to search for a suitable place for a night’s stay before sunset. There was no place in that village. He had to saunter a few more kilometres, but he was exhausted and fatigued. Refreshing tea and biscuits replenished his energy. He thanked the host who ran the tea shanty, paid him for the refreshments and resumed the saunter. It was amazing to see small children coming from schools far away from their villages.
The rest
After almost dragging himself for a few more kilometres, he arrived at a “village” inhabited by a single family. The home was moderately big with a provision for visitors, too. The head of the family agreed to accommodate him. It was no less than heaven for a fully tired and exhausted person like him. Such en route halting spaces during the trek to Panch Kedar are like a heaven. He offloaded his rucksack from his shoulder and sat on the ground. Tea and rest gave much-needed respite; he felt recharged.
Light and food
It became pitch dark. There was no electricity. The food was being prepared on fuel wood in a smoky “Chulha” (Earthen hearth). The lighting was provided by a kerosene lamp – “Dhibri”. It consisted of a bottle filled with kerosene. The wick was dipped in the kerosene through a pierced lid. The flickering yellow flame with heavy soot was the only source of light. The lamp had to be turned off right after finishing the work. This was due to the heavy soot in the poorly ventilated room. Despite this, the stay was pretty good and reasonably comfortable. He liked it very much.
Star studded sky
He heartily ate the frugal but comforting dinner. Chapāti, Dal (Pulses), and vegetables served on a platter tasted good. The dark night was romantic. Finishing dinner, he came out in open and looked at the sky. Astonishingly star-studded sky kept him mum. Stars of all sizes appeared laced on a dark, thin shroud, covering the head of a beautiful lady. Gazing at the captivating sky, he sat motionless. The charm of the Panch Kedar trek is multifaceted. The householder’s dog barked, looking at the darkness. It broke his concentration. Casting a parting glance at the sky, he went in, slipped into the sleeping bag and dozed. Soon, he fell into a deep sleep.
Morning symphony
The morning was crisp and pleasant. He freshened himself and had tea. It was a refreshing moment. The sun was about to rise. The diffused light casting on the ripples of a river flowing nearby looked lovely. The rippling sound of the river was like soft music, which, in a symphony of chirping birds, was soul-soothing.
The temple
Morning tea was good and refreshing. He felt rejuvenated. Leaving behind comparatively heavy luggage in the custody of the family, he resumed the trek. Passing through the most beautiful sites and paths, he ultimately reached an open space. At the other end of it was a temple with a modest crown. The Madmaheshwar temple!
The surroundings
Placing his belongings in the temple complex, he started exploring the area. It was a serene and pious place. One peculiar thing that attracted his attention was the inclination of the trees. The sporadic trees in the meadow were lovely, giving a dimension to the whole ambience. Soon, clouds enshrouded the whole area. It was a thrilling experience. Standing amidst clouds, he couldn’t believe it to be true! It amused him that he was amidst clouds; he had been watching and viewing in the sky! Proximity to Nature establishes an unseen bond, a reward that trek to Panch Kedar offers to a trekker.
Timeless treasure
To collect every moment, scene, and happening in his heart, he wandered all over the area. He circumambulated the temple area and climbed a small hillock, touching trees with affection. To preserve it forever as a souvenir, he tried to form a bond with Nature, communicating with its elements. The temple was simple, which housed sculptures of deities made up of precious metals. He participated in the veneration of Lord Madmaheshwar, who is Lord Mahadev. The time he spent is a treasured possession. The trek he undertook will always keep him rejuvenated and agile.
Further readings:
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Kamal Kishore Srivastava
A retired government officer turned writer and photographer, Kamal Kishore Srivastava is a regular blogger and essayist who explores life’s deeper meanings through immersive reflections on nature, impermanence, and happiness. On his blog Nature’s Narrative, he blends philosophical storytelling with practical insights. Writing 1200–1500 or more words regularly, Kamal is committed to refining his craft, expanding his audience, and building a sustainable space where thought and feeling meet.
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